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Laying Natural and Porcelain Paving

laying guide

INSTALLATION

Through the following process, we can learn how to install the paving both natural (Slabs, Cobbles, etc) and porcelain.

INTRO:

This is an installation guide through which you can use to figure out how to install/lay the paving material of your dreams at your home, whether it's in the lawn, backyard, or in front of the house. The guidelines' purpose is to outline the fundamental principles of paving installation. Typically, a wastage factor of at least 10% should be allowed for cuts and other surface flaws while considering the quantity of material required for the laying.

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PLANNING:

The first step in your paving process is the most important because it comprises all the preliminary planning before you pave on your own or with the help of a professional/landscaper. A flawless plan is necessary for flawless implementation. A plan must also contain the size, thickness, and pattern of the pavers/slabs you intend to employ in your planned space. A sketch is also required for the planning procedure when laying a patio or any other type of paving. In a sketch, incorporate all the specifics of your paving area and its surrounds.
Furthermore, you should consider the delivery timing of your material so that it is available to you when needed. The below are the materials and products needed to lay a patio.

SITE PREPARATION:

The site preparation process begins with the installation of a fall as part of the drainage plan, as well as the placement of pegs and string to indicate the area to be paved. It also includes placing a geo textile over the ground first, and then digging out that specific spot, in case the location you are paving is unstable or has persistent weeds. Now, a 150-200 mm depth needs to be dug out in that location for a sturdy base under the paving working as/or so-called foundation. This 150 mm deep hole will include 75mm of hardcore mix and 75mm of soft sand mix, as well as the paving thickness. Use a Wacker plate or a wooden batten to firm and compact the base before laying the stone. After compacting the hardcore mix, check for any voids and fill them with sand before compacting it again. Finally, lay only enough mortar for one flag at a time, making sure that the bed is larger than the flagstone..

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LAYING PAVING:

As stone is laid/paved in the region, it must be inssured that there is a slope away from the house. A slope is normally optimum to have 1mm of slope for every 60mm of stone distance laid because it serves a drainage purpose while also not looking sloppy to the eyes. 1 wooden batten, 2 wooden pegs, and a spirit level are useful tools for laying the stone. These gadgets are used to keep a modest incline for drainage. If you have a large paving area, consider selecting slabs from different packs so as to improve the look and feel of the paved area while also ensuring you have enough slabs.

The Mortar mixture combines ¾ parts sharp sand to 1 part cement. This mortar mix will form the layer between the hard base and the stone paving that will be installed. A length of lumber is used to create an even base for paving. A corner is the finest way to begin your paving from a bed of mortar towards an adjustable edge, on a Mortar mix that has ¾ parts sharp sand to 1 cement. It is often advisable to dry lay your flags (whether random or in a circle) first, if workable, to verify the fit and ensure you like the pattern. Then, using a spirit level, ensure the level; if not, lightly tap the stone with a rubber mallet to level it, and repeat until all paving is laid as directed. Instead of spot paving, the mortar beneath the paving should be laid thoroughly, as spot paving will leave areas of cement on the stone surface after a few days of absorbing the mortar, and paving may not be properly installed underneath and come loose after a few years of use.

JOINTING/POINTING:

The next step is to fill the joints/spaces left between the paved stones. The end product will be a dry mix comprising 3 parts construction sand to 1 part cement. Now, using the sweep, ensure that we fill all the joints with the mix. A water can is now required to water the mix in all the joints between the paved areas. Ensure not to over-water as this might cause damage and flooding to all the joints. In the meantime, wipe away any excess mix towards a corner; otherwise, if additional mix is left on the paving's surface, cleaning will become difficult, if not impossible.

Instead of butt joining, there must be a 3mm joint gap between two paving (preferably 5mm-10mm) as gaps between enable paving space for contraction and expansion due to weather and keep slabs safe from chipping during paving laying. Then, for at least 24 hours, cordon off the newly paved area, preventing any foot movement. .

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